THE PROCESS

How it Works ...

The process I use is a two-component urethane, similar to an epoxy, but only in that it is a two-part mixture.  Most epoxies will dry hard, but they are also brittle, and over time, they will yellow.  The process I use does not yellow - it holds its color extremely well.  In addition to that, some surfaces, like fiberglass and steel tubs, have a tendency to "flex" when you step into them, and the key to my process is that it can expand and contract (flex) with hot and cold water - without cracking out!

What you end up with is a bathtub that looks, feels, and cleans like porcelain, and is extremely easy to keep clean.  After refinishing, it usually takes no more than a washcloth and a very mild liquid or foam cleaner to clean it.

Preparing for Refinishing

Successful refinishing depends greatly on how well the surface is prepared, and preparation steps differ depending on the type of tub surface (porcelain vs. cultured marble or fiberglass) being refinished.  However, some steps are the same.  For example, on all tubs, I remove the old caulking and thoroughly clean the surface.

On porcelain tubs and sinks, I use an acid to etch the surface.  On cultured marble and fiberglass tubs and sinks, I use a wet/dry sandpaper to "rough up" the surface.  This preparation gives my process something to adhere to.  All areas not being refinished are completely protected by drop cloths and/or masking paper.

Primer and Top Coats

After the surface is prepared, a primer coat is applied.  This is a powerful bonding agent (that shares common properties with the top coat) which attaches to the tub surface.  The entire surface will then get a minimum of 4 top coats.

Downtime

From start to finish, all of this work takes about 5 to 6 hours.  The process will dry to the touch in about 12 hours.  The masking paper can be removed and the tub re-caulked in as little as 24 hours.  The bathtub is ready for use 48 hours after refinishing.